The thing I'm expecting to see soon is the electrolytic caps failing on these, and that's going to be a big hassle (on the other hand the caps in my turntable have been leaking for a decade because I'm too lazy to spend a few hours replacing them, and it still works fine).
They can spurt a bit and still bear enough capacity to keep things moving. The little dears are overheating, Zirc. You need to cool things down there...
Yeah, I have all the replacements but it's a big hassle this is a Technics SP-15 so it's got about 30 electrolytics on two boards, and taking the platter off to disasseble it is always a risk because the way it's designed the platter is actually the fixed-magnet part of the motor, so it'seasy to do some realy fatal damage if you aren't careful. Plus after it's recapped I'll have to recalibrate it and t recalibrate it you have to devise some kind of stand that lets you power it up and play a strobe disc on it while the bottom is still off and you have access to three or for trimpots from underneath. It's a massive pain in the ass and I wish I had a more conventional turntable of comparable quality but that's unlikely to happen. I paid plus a set of old speakers I had bought for ; last time I looked on eBay the cheapest working SP15 was about 00, and the tone arm alone would cost me at least 00 to get a comparable modern equivalent. Definitely worth maintaining but what a pain in the ass.
That's amazing that you can still be bothered to mess with a turntable. For what it's worth, why not replace the trim pots while you are at it with some real pots that you mount on the chassis. Then you can calibrate the damn thing right before a session. One wonders why the two grand table didn't come with that?
Also, THIRTY CAPS? What the fuck is going on in there (grin)? I took a cheap turntable apart for the motor to build a magnetic stirrer ( worked great, and replacing the speed trim pot with a big pot gave me a very generous range of speed ) and the whole thing was not much more than the motor and the little controller. Sounds more like a spot welding tool than a turntable.
|infinite zest |
Now that I think about it, I've never ever opened one of my consoles up, to clean it or otherwise. Ironically I've also never had one fail while everyone else swears up and down console after console has died on them.
Judging by the way my PC looks inside after a month, I imagine the inside of my PlayStation looks like a plastic box of packed dryer lint.
Only if it has a fan. My NES was 20 years old the first time I opened it and it looked pretty much spotless.
I wonder if anyone ever found a use for the mystery SCSI (or maybe it's parallel )but on a Centronics style plug?) port inside of it. I've heard it was meant for the Nintendo modem that was supposed to be used to connect your NES to a dial-up Nintendo online network, none of which ever made it beyond the concept stage. Did that robot use it maybe?
Least to most durable consoles ever:
Knocking on wood here, but the curbed 360 I have is pretty durable. Like my laptop, a housemate just put it in the dumpster in the rain. Since I mostly just use it for netflix I've fallen asleep and left it on, and it's still truckin'. It's a Halo 3 Edition, so that makes it 9 years old probably with a lot of wear and tear and more use than any console used specifically for vidya games that I've ever had.
I swear I didn't even click those stars.
Never owned a Turbograph 16 but I can vouch for the SNES. We were moving once when I was 9 years old, and my cousin dropped my SNES in the rain, down a flight of stairs which crash landed on a wet slab of concrete. Twenty-one years later that very same SNES still works like new.
Crap, I didn't even see this video when I commented on the other one.
The replacement cartridge connectors you can get these days are (relatively) built like fucking tanks and will last you 10x as long as the one that comes with the system, especially if you do the sensible thing and get rid of the carriage.
If you don't mind soldering a bit, or paying a guy to do it for you, it's a worthwhile thing to do even if yours isn't broken.
Do you have to solder even? i replaced mine in 2004 or 2005 and all I had to do was loosen two screws, unplug the old one from a connector on the main board, and plug in/screw down the new one. I don't use it too often (I mainly fixed it because I traded for a MidiNES but it turns out the MidiNES was so buggy it wasn't that useful) but it's still going strong.
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